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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.