Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
